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Forum Member
 
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Last Login: 7/6/2009 3:26:16 AM
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Hi everyone! I'm new to the forums, so hopefully this is where I can put my post.
I recently bought a whole lot of old Batman comics and they are in pretty mint condition from before 1980, and they've come in Mylar bags with acid-free boards. However, I've also bought a few newer Batman comics from a different trader and they haven't come in Mylar bags, but a lot more flexible plastic sleeve, and the board they arrived with was white, thin and had a kind of sheen on one side and a tacky kind of rough surface on the other - some comics seem to have the same type of board, but aren't as tacky. So I have a few questions:
1) What kind of boards do you think the second lot of comics arrived with? Will it affect my comics? Should I change them? Are they acid free?
2) Are any kind of plastic sleeves okay? Do the ones the second lot of comics arrived in sound like they'll do the job?
Also, I'm having trouble getting comics out and back into the Mylar bags. Does anyone else have this problem? It takes a lot of pulling and tugging to get any comic out of those bags, and I really don't want to ruin them, but I can't see why the bags seem unwilling to release their comicy goodness.
Well, answers to any of the above questions would help. Currently, the majority of my comics are lying in piles on a shelf, covered and bagged (some boarded), but I'm looking to move them into boxes in my cupboard. Any suggestions on boxes?
Basically, I'm just looking for a what-not-to-do of comic caring. I'm just a little concerned about the bags and boards - I know acid can have a big effect on comics in the long run and since I purchased them as an investment, I don't want them to get ruined.
Thanks!
Spawn Man.
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Elite Collector
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The best bags and boards are those made out of Mylar D or Melinex 516. The best boards will be acid free and buffered throughout. What I am moving all of my comics into are Mylites2 and Fullbacks from E. Gerber these both fit the criteria above though it is a bit more expensive route. The advantage is is that you will likely never have to replace them again in your lifetime. Mylites are made of thinner Mylar than what gets called Mylars.
It does take a bit more to get them in and out but if you are careful then you should cause no undo stress to the books. Mylar is a bit more tacky than your standard poly bags, which is what those other bags are made of. Poly bags need to be replaced every 3-5 years and so do the standard "acid free" board. In fact most of these acid free boards are only acid free when they are manufactured and buffered on one side (usually the whiter/smooth side) and this buffering doe snot last very long and once the buffer is spent the board will start to adsorb the gasses from the bags and the book and can actually start to stain the part of the book that contacts it.
You can get by with polybags but just keep in mind that you will have to swap them and the boards every 3-5 years or they will start to damage the books.
I believe Bob Cole also has their versions of Mylites but they are called Arklites.
With respect to Mylites I would lean towards either Mylites+ or Mylites2 as they are both thicker and far less fragile and crinkly than the standard Mylites which are quite thin. You can also use half backs from E Gerber too but I would not use them on your more expensive books as they do not provide as much support.
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Elite Collector
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oxbladder (7/2/2009)
The best bags and boards are those made out of Mylar D or Melinex 516. The best boards will be acid free and buffered throughout. What I am moving all of my comics into are Mylites2 and Fullbacks from E. Gerber these both fit the criteria above though it is a bit more expensive route. The advantage is is that you will likely never have to replace them again in your lifetime. Mylites are made of thinner Mylar than what gets called Mylars.
It does take a bit more to get them in and out but if you are careful then you should cause no undo stress to the books. Mylar is a bit more tacky than your standard poly bags, which is what those other bags are made of. Poly bags need to be replaced every 3-5 years and so do the standard "acid free" board. In fact most of these acid free boards are only acid free when they are manufactured and buffered on one side (usually the whiter/smooth side) and this buffering doe snot last very long and once the buffer is spent the board will start to adsorb the gasses from the bags and the book and can actually start to stain the part of the book that contacts it.
You can get by with polybags but just keep in mind that you will have to swap them and the boards every 3-5 years or they will start to damage the books.
I believe Bob Cole also has their versions of Mylites but they are called Arklites.
With respect to Mylites I would lean towards either Mylites+ or Mylites2 as they are both thicker and far less fragile and crinkly than the standard Mylites which are quite thin. You can also use half backs from E Gerber too but I would not use them on your more expensive books as they do not provide as much support.What he said. 
 My Mission : To become a respected professional paper conservator/restorer 
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Forum Member
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Last Login: 7/6/2009 3:26:16 AM
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Thanks for the replies guys! I do wonder though, why are the boards the second trader gave me slightly sticky/tacky on one side? Are these true acid-free boards?
Also, how much do you think these extra bags/boards will cost? And what about comic boxes? Will any old box be all right? And I also heard somewhere that you have to store them vertically, but I'm currently storing them on top of each other...?
Thanks for the help! : )
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Master Collector
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Spawn Man (7/3/2009)
Also, how much do you think these extra bags/boards will cost? And what about comic boxes? Will any old box be all right? And I also heard somewhere that you have to store them vertically, but I'm currently storing them on top of each other...?
Thanks for the help! : )
Where I live, 100 bags and 100 boards cost around $15. Any old box is better than nothing, but having it so the comics dont move around is key.
Storing them vertically is best, as stacking comics on top of one another can lead to problems, but not always. Better safe than sorry, I say.
-slym
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Elite Collector
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Spawn Man (7/3/2009)
Thanks for the replies guys! I do wonder though, why are the boards the second trader gave me slightly sticky/tacky on one side? Are these true acid-free boards?
Well some manufacturers have a matte finish on both sides which is less smooth and will grip the book more. Others have a "finished" side which allows the book to slide in and out with little resistance. As I mentioned only these bards are NOT true acid free only acid free at manufacture. Only boards which are buffered throughout are true acid free, which are boards from Cole or Gerber (and I think BCW may have a true acid free board)
Also, how much do you think these extra bags/boards will cost? And what about comic boxes? Will any old box be all right? And I also heard somewhere that you have to store them vertically, but I'm currently storing them on top of each other...?
Thanks for the help! : )
If you use Mylites/Mylars then almost any box will do but ideally you want to use an acid free box. Gerber is one of the few that has a completely acid free box.
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